by Jim Bennett
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival has long held a place in my imagination. I’ve seen the lineups over the years, I’ve loved lots of music out of New Orleans, and I’ve talked with friends who’ve photographed it. It’s so intriguing: 14 stages spread all around a huge racetrack, many of them with photo pits open the whole set; lots of artists sitting in with other artists; Mardi Gras Indians doing parades regularly around the grounds and performing on stages; and generally, an air of looseness that the city and its music embody. There’s a massive, massive tent dedicated to Jazz acts, another just to Blues acts, and another to Gospel. Drum lines, cumbia punk, zydeco and cajun, funk, booty-shaking bounce…
I was grateful to have a chance to attend and photograph Weekend 2 which was May 1-4 this year. I saw Nevilles and Marsalises, 2 Meters (Zigaboo Modeliste and George Porter Jr.), Kermit Ruffins doing Louis Armstrong tunes, and Stanton Moore in 2 different bands (Galactic and Dragon Smoke).
Bands added a lot of special touches for their Jazz Fest sets. My Morning Jacket opened with the Fats Domino song “Walkin To New Orleans”, the first time they’ve ever played it (and it was great – look for the recording). Pearl Jam had their close friend, local resident and New Orleans Saints hero Steve Gleason sitting in front of the stage the entire set and broke out both “Tremor Christ” and “Red Mosquito” deep cuts during their 2 hour tour de force. Trombone Shorty, a NOLA legend and Jazz Fest closer, brought out some Mardi Gras Indians during his set (from a tribe based in his home ward, the 6th) and later Lenny Kravitz joined him on stage. Dumpstaphunk could only have grown out of New Orleans and left it all on the stage. There’s a lightness to the proceedings, and joy, and surprises, and discovery.
A dance party with Morris Day and the Time? Check. Patti LaBelle with a full band and backup singers? Check. Irma Thomas coming out to guest with Galactic? Check. Painted faces, marionettes, traditional Mexican dancers? Check. Christone “Kingfish” Ingram inviting folks from the audience on stage to dance? Of course he did. More delicious local food than you could possibly try in a month? It’s everywhere. Of all the festivals I’ve covered around the US and in Europe, Jazz Fest is unique in how very much it’s a love letter to its host city’s music and culture, top to bottom. As you walk across the grounds on the way to see one act, you may very well pass a stage or a tent that draws you in first. A tangible atmosphere that’s inviting and celebratory is created during each day and present all across the grounds.
I can’t recommend it enough. Bring sunscreen, drink lots of water (along with whatever else you drink), maybe try the shrimp macque choux or the meaty white beans and get to dancing.
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